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Retinoids 101

Should you be using a retinoid? Yes, yes and yes. Let's better understand the science, importance, and impact of retinoids.

Two women holding Barefaced RetinAL Skin Therapy

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What Are Retinoids?

The umbrella term “retinoid” is used for all vitamin A derivatives (ex: retinol, retinAL, prescription strength Retin-A). What differentiates them is their strength, or how many conversions they must go through to become active and effective on the skin. The fewer conversions, the more potent and effective the retinoid will be. 

All retinoids work to increase cellular turnover, which causes our skin to regenerate more quickly, thus making the skin look more youthful, vibrant, and refreshed. They are the most well-studied, widely-used product for “anti-aging.”



What is cellular turnover?

As we age, our cellular turnover decreases significantly. When we are babies, our cellular turnover is as quick as 2 weeks — but once you’re in your 20s-40s, it’s more like 1-2 months! 

Infographic Cellular Turnover As We Age 

 

What are the benefits of retinoids?

    Aside from SPF, retinoids are the #1 product for promoting long-term skin health across all skin types. They are fundamental in your skincare routine–they build the foundation for healthy skin by increasing cellular turnover. Here are just a few of their amazing benefits:

      • Reduces the appearance of fine lines + wrinkles by increasing collagen production
      • Improves skin tone + texture for smoother, firmer looking skin
      • Aids in fading sun spots and smoothing out rough patches on the skin
      • Increases cellular turnover, which can minimize breakouts
      • Stimulates production of new blood vessels on the skin, which improves the color of the skin

    Do I need to use a retinoid?

    Retinoids help keep our skin looking younger and healthier. We recommend that everyone over the age of 25 should use one. Plus, if you struggle with acne at any age, retinoids are one of our most recommended treatments!

    Infographic Do I Need a Retinoid

    So, how do retinoids work?

    In order for a retinoid to work its magic and actually induce change in the skin, it has to be in the form of retinoic acid.

     

    → Retinol esters are the least potent and most gentle form of the vitamin A derivative.
    → Retinol must convert to retinaldehyde and then convert to retinoic acid before it can be utilized by the skin.
    → Retinaldehyde only goes through one conversion phase to become retinoic acid; making it an estimated 20x stronger than retinol and the closest and most-potent retinoid available without going into prescription-strength territory.


    → Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin, Retin-A) starts working immediately upon application, no conversions necessary, and is available through prescription only. Because of its strength, it can be quite irritating for certain skin types. Many users have a hard time establishing tolerance because of dryness, flaking, sensitivity, redness, and irritation. These reactions often cause people to take too many nights off, making it even harder for the skin to adjust, before giving up use completely.
    Retinoid Strengths infographic

    Why you should always use your retinoid at night

    Retinoids are best used at night (and stored in a cabinet or drawer!!!) because they can break down and become less effective when exposed to sunlight. UV rays not only degrade the active ingredient, reducing its potency, but also increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun, making it more prone to irritation and damage. Nighttime application allows the retinoid to work with your skin’s natural repair cycle — when cell turnover and regeneration are at their peak — helping you get the most out of this powerful ingredient without unnecessary sensitivity.



    Times to skip a retinoid

    There may be instances when you are unable to use a retinoid, like when you’re pregnant. This is when you can use bakuchiol (Overachiever) as your retinoid alternative (but always get clearance from your OB first). Bakuchiol (when used twice daily) has similar long-term benefits as a retinoid, but with less irritation, sensitivity and redness that can occur from using a retinoid alone.

    Usage Tips + FAQs

    To learn all about how to gradually incorporate and successfully use retinoids, check out these other articles:





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